Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338 - Chevelle Tech
Wheels & Tires What fits what?
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

I'm trying to figure out if I want to go 18x8/18x10 or 18x8/20x10 on my 66. I'm not sure if I like the classic look of the torque thrust II or the smoothness of the 338, either way I think I'm going chrome. My biggest question is what tire size to run as I want either the same series or something not far if I go staggered. I'd like to run a 285 in the back and maybe a 255 in the front but series wise I have no clue what works in both sizes.Let me see what you got and and tell me what the are. Any help would be great as I'm tired of duty searches.

1966 coupe, 327ci, th350
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 12:24 PM
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Rod
 
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

here are a few pics of my '66 with 18x8 245/45/18's front and 20x10 295/40/20's on back, zero offset on the wheels as well... I like a little more sidewall than some but I think the most important thing is that sidewall height is proportionate front to rear. Here's a link to a great little tire calculator that lets you compare two different tire sizes and then gives you the measurements as well as a visual comparison between the two. https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

Just load your rear tire size in the top boxes and the fronts in the lower. Hope this helps some...
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1966 Malibu, 540 BBC FAST XFI EFI, 4L80E Trans, 2800 Stall, Quick Performance 59" 9" Ford Rear End w/3.50 gear
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 5:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

Quote:
Originally Posted by 66 Bu View Post
here are a few pics of my '66 with 18x8 245/45/18's front and 20x10 295/40/20's on back, zero offset on the wheels as well... I like a little more sidewall than some but I think the most important thing is that sidewall height is proportionate front to rear. Here's a link to a great little tire calculator that lets you compare two different tire sizes and then gives you the measurements as well as a visual comparison between the two. https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

Just load your rear tire size in the top boxes and the fronts in the lower. Hope this helps some...
Haha seeing pics of your car was the hole reason I wanted to do the 18/20.

1966 coupe, 327ci, th350
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 5:47 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

I just mounted boss 338's 20x10 6.2" bs on my '66 last week. I have a '68 rear which is 1" wider and disc brakes so the 6.2 bs worked great They fit the wheel wells perfect. The tires are 285 30 20. I got a smoking deal on the tires or I would have gone with 295 35 20. The fronts aren't mounted yet but they are 18x8, 4.5 bs with 245 40 18 tires. sorry for the crooked pics
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 6:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

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Originally Posted by mercmd View Post
I just mounted boss 338's 20x10 6.2" bs on my '66 last week. I have a '68 rear which is 1" wider and disc brakes so the 6.2 bs worked great They fit the wheel wells perfect. The tires are 285 30 20. I got a smoking deal on the tires or I would have gone with 295 35 20. The fronts aren't mounted yet but they are 18x8, 4.5 bs with 245 40 18 tires. sorry for the crooked pics
Wanda see pics of whole car when fronts are done, like what I see so far.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 7:07 PM
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Rod
 
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yourscrewed View Post
Haha seeing pics of your car was the hole reason I wanted to do the 18/20.
Thanks! I'm really happy with the overall stance and look...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmd View Post
I just mounted boss 338's 20x10 6.2" bs on my '66 last week. I have a '68 rear which is 1" wider and disc brakes so the 6.2 bs worked great They fit the wheel wells perfect. The tires are 285 30 20. I got a smoking deal on the tires or I would have gone with 295 35 20. The fronts aren't mounted yet but they are 18x8, 4.5 bs with 245 40 18 tires. sorry for the crooked pics
You gotta take advantage of deal when you find them, tires are expensive! You'll have a little more sidewall in the front, about a 1/2" but you still maintain an 1" of rake front to back. She'll still look sweet but I think you'll be happier with the 295/35 when you get done burning through the 285's, lol. Post a pic with the full set, I'd love to see it.

I thought about going the 295/35 route myself... The 295/35/20 & 245/40/18 is a good combo, much like the 295/40/20 & 245/45/18 combo, both of them give you about 1/4" more sidewall on the back than the front and a little over 2" of rake. Then it's just a matter of personal preference on the amount of sidewall you want. The 40 has about a 1/2" more sidewall than the 35...
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1966 Malibu, 540 BBC FAST XFI EFI, 4L80E Trans, 2800 Stall, Quick Performance 59" 9" Ford Rear End w/3.50 gear
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 8:21 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

The tires are Sumitiomo HTR Z III I purchased all 4 for $640 from Tire Rack. Unbeatable deal. The 295's I will eventually get when I burn the 285's off will fit with no issues. I almost want to put a 1/2" spacer in as it is now to push the wheels out closer to the quarter lip. I figure I will run them for a while to make sure there are no rubbing issues in hard cornering and maybe then push the envelope a little.. I'll definitely post a pic when I install the fronts. I'm really happy with these wheels and the way they look. It took me almost a year to make the decision. I was looking at forged wheels that were quadruple the price but at the end of the day, I'm not track racing and my wife has already made a few remarks at some of the expenses of the car (600 hp 496, disc brakes all the way around, etc etc) and said wtf! These wheels are ALOT of bang for the buck. Completely transformed the look of the car.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 17, 8:29 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

66 Bu what is your suspension setup? Love the stance..
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 17, 2:10 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

Hmmm, Makes me want to get a 20" rear rim now.... I like the 18's but that 20" rear looks great!

Here are my 18's:

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 17, 8:12 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

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Originally Posted by mercmd View Post
66 Bu what is your suspension setup? Love the stance..
Thanks! It was a lot of work to get it there and I learned a whole lot in the process. I can tell this much up front, I don't have many of the suspension parts on it now that I started with. In hind sight I would have been almost money ahead to have bought an aftermarket chassis. But I will admit, most of the problems that I had were self inflicted based upon decisions that I made.

I love the look of a 'bagged' car, but to me the only problem is that they only look that way when parked therefore won't encounter some of the problems that you create when you intend on lowering a car this much and still be able to drive it. Things like pinion angle and tire to sheet metal clearance. But for those that don't want to read the entire post I'll start by simply stating my suspension set up components as they are now.

Rear Suspension: UMI double adjustable lower control arms with Roto Joints on both ends, CPP upper adjustable control arms, QA1 single adjustable coil over shocks w/200 # springs, UMI lower control arm relocation brackets, modified lower shock brackets, Quick Performance 9" rear end narrowed 1" with Roto Joints installed in the upper control bushings, CPP pro touring sway bar with modified UMI sway bar to rear end mount, CPP 12" rear disc brakes, UMI lower to upper control arm braces, and UMI rear shock tower brace.

Front Suspension: Fat Man G Tech tubular upper and lower control arms that are 1" narrower per side, CPP 2" drop modular drop spindles, QA1 coil over shocks w/550# springs, CPP 13" disc brakes, Hydra Boost Brake Booster, and CPP front sway bar. I also have a Unisteer power rack and pinion setup.

Now for the issues I ran in to, first off after sitting the body back on the chassis after installing the original set up I noticed that the car didn't appear to be any lower at all and when we pushed down on car it was rock hard. Got to checking everything out and while I had plenty of clearance between the frame and the wheel/tire at the center point of the rear end the the inner part of the rear inner fender wells, nearest the frame were sitting on the tire, both in front and back. I wasn't interested in putting mini tubs in my car because if you're not pinching the frame there isn't really anything to gain. If you look up in the rear fender wells you will see that the fender wells curves back in towards the tire both front and back. So to fix that I basically squared up the inner fender wells by cutting a small portion out of the floor pan and then sectioning the front and back of the stock tubs. We body worked them after we were done and you can't tell it's been modified at all. Also, on the at the rear of the fender well I drilled out the body mount and reshaped them and moved them back about 2" and welded them back on.

So now that I cleared the tires i had an issue with the shock bottoming out before the car was low enough. Also, when lowering the car as much as I wanted it to sit the shocks were rubbing the rear end housing because the housing rotates as you lower the suspension. So I fabbed me up some new shock mounts that allowed the shock to be installed lower and away from the rear end.

Next problem was that from lowering it this much the pinion angle was terrible and when I tried to adjust it through the top control arms it actually pushed the rear backwards to the point that the tires were just about into the wheel well openings. Also, with the car this low the rear attachment point of the lower control arms was higher than the front connection point, which is a no no. So I bought another new set of lower control arms that were double adjustable, with Roto Joints on both ends to make it smooth, and a lower control arm relocation bracket from UMI to correct the geometry problem. This gave me enough adjustment through both the upper and lower control arms to fix the geometry and achieve proper pinion angle. While I was at it I also upgraded the upper control arm bushings to Roto Joints as well.

So, in the end I have a properly set up rear end that doesn't bind. I have full travel of the coil overs, both ways, and more clearance between the rear end housing and the frame than the shock will travel.

On the front I didn't really have to do anything special but I did have to buy new spindles because when I bought the first set 'they' assured me that I wouldn't need drop spindles to lower it where I wanted it to set. 'They' were wrong, not only was it almost impossible to get the car where I wanted it, when I did lower it the a arms were really pushed up and would have caused suspension travel issues so I bought a new set of drop spindles.

Also, though my brake set up wasn't supposed to add any width to the front track, once I got the car lower it was too close to the wheel wells and I wasn't comfortable leaving it like that so I bought another new set of Fat Man G Tech narrowed a arms. So now it's all good and I'm happy with what I got, lol.

Also, I want to add that I didn't trim or roll any of the fender well lips. I personally don't care for that and think the car looks better with the stock sheet metal configuration.

Hope this helps, lol, and it really wasn't as bad as it sounds....

1966 Malibu, 540 BBC FAST XFI EFI, 4L80E Trans, 2800 Stall, Quick Performance 59" 9" Ford Rear End w/3.50 gear
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 17, 9:10 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

That's some great information 66 bu. Thanks!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 17, 1:31 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

To the ones that posted pics:

I also have a 66 and have been tormenting myself over the color I want.

I really like the way your colors came out.

What is the official name of color?

Is it just black, or does it have a different name?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 17, 11:00 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

Its a gunmetal gray finish, but black is also available, chrome and silver also i think.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 17, 8:13 PM
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Re: Pics of 66/67 with 18 all around or 18/20 tt2 or 338

Dupont 99K Black

1966 Malibu, 540 BBC FAST XFI EFI, 4L80E Trans, 2800 Stall, Quick Performance 59" 9" Ford Rear End w/3.50 gear
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