66 Bu what is your suspension setup? Love the stance..
Thanks! It was a lot of work to get it there and I learned a whole lot in the process. I can tell this much up front, I don't have many of the suspension parts on it now that I started with. In hind sight I would have been almost money ahead to have bought an aftermarket chassis. But I will admit, most of the problems that I had were self inflicted based upon decisions that I made.
I love the look of a 'bagged' car, but to me the only problem is that they only look that way when parked therefore won't encounter some of the problems that you create when you intend on lowering a car this much and still be able to drive it. Things like pinion angle and tire to sheet metal clearance. But for those that don't want to read the entire post I'll start by simply stating my suspension set up components as they are now.
Rear Suspension: UMI double adjustable lower control arms with Roto Joints on both ends, CPP upper adjustable control arms, QA1 single adjustable coil over shocks w/200 # springs, UMI lower control arm relocation brackets, modified lower shock brackets, Quick Performance 9" rear end narrowed 1" with Roto Joints installed in the upper control bushings, CPP pro touring sway bar with modified UMI sway bar to rear end mount, CPP 12" rear disc brakes, UMI lower to upper control arm braces, and UMI rear shock tower brace.
Front Suspension: Fat Man G Tech tubular upper and lower control arms that are 1" narrower per side, CPP 2" drop modular drop spindles, QA1 coil over shocks w/550# springs, CPP 13" disc brakes, Hydra Boost Brake Booster, and CPP front sway bar. I also have a Unisteer power rack and pinion setup.
Now for the issues I ran in to, first off after sitting the body back on the chassis after installing the original set up I noticed that the car didn't appear to be any lower at all and when we pushed down on car it was rock hard. Got to checking everything out and while I had plenty of clearance between the frame and the wheel/tire at the center point of the rear end the the inner part of the rear inner fender wells, nearest the frame were sitting on the tire, both in front and back. I wasn't interested in putting mini tubs in my car because if you're not pinching the frame there isn't really anything to gain. If you look up in the rear fender wells you will see that the fender wells curves back in towards the tire both front and back. So to fix that I basically squared up the inner fender wells by cutting a small portion out of the floor pan and then sectioning the front and back of the stock tubs. We body worked them after we were done and you can't tell it's been modified at all. Also, on the at the rear of the fender well I drilled out the body mount and reshaped them and moved them back about 2" and welded them back on.
So now that I cleared the tires i had an issue with the shock bottoming out before the car was low enough. Also, when lowering the car as much as I wanted it to sit the shocks were rubbing the rear end housing because the housing rotates as you lower the suspension. So I fabbed me up some new shock mounts that allowed the shock to be installed lower and away from the rear end.
Next problem was that from lowering it this much the pinion angle was terrible and when I tried to adjust it through the top control arms it actually pushed the rear backwards to the point that the tires were just about into the wheel well openings. Also, with the car this low the rear attachment point of the lower control arms was higher than the front connection point, which is a no no. So I bought another new set of lower control arms that were double adjustable, with Roto Joints on both ends to make it smooth, and a lower control arm relocation bracket from UMI to correct the geometry problem. This gave me enough adjustment through both the upper and lower control arms to fix the geometry and achieve proper pinion angle. While I was at it I also upgraded the upper control arm bushings to Roto Joints as well.
So, in the end I have a properly set up rear end that doesn't bind. I have full travel of the coil overs, both ways, and more clearance between the rear end housing and the frame than the shock will travel.
On the front I didn't really have to do anything special but I did have to buy new spindles because when I bought the first set 'they' assured me that I wouldn't need drop spindles to lower it where I wanted it to set. 'They' were wrong, not only was it almost impossible to get the car where I wanted it, when I did lower it the a arms were really pushed up and would have caused suspension travel issues so I bought a new set of drop spindles.
Also, though my brake set up wasn't supposed to add any width to the front track, once I got the car lower it was too close to the wheel wells and I wasn't comfortable leaving it like that so I bought another new set of Fat Man G Tech narrowed a arms. So now it's all good and I'm happy with what I got, lol.
Also, I want to add that I didn't trim or roll any of the fender well lips. I personally don't care for that and think the car looks better with the stock sheet metal configuration.
Hope this helps, lol, and it really wasn't as bad as it sounds....