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Installing front coilovers...

8K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  Philip 
#1 ·
I am hoping to get my new front coilovers installed sometime next week. If anyone has any pointers for making it go smoothly, please give me some guidance. For instance, will I need to have the spring in the lowest position for installation?? Will silver grade anti seize work for the adjustment nut threads and the bearing?? Now many clicks on the compression and rebound settings should I use for the street?? Let me know. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I don't have coil-overs on my car (just my UTV), but it may be worth mentioning you have a hybrid coil over where the top of the spring goes in the factory upper spring pocket.

I doubt the anti-seize is required, but I'd use a skim coat of the silver stuff for sure. It's best to make adjustments with the suspension unloaded otherwise it can be quite difficult to turn the spanner.

As for the C and R settings. I'd start at 5/5 or 6/6. You'll be surprised how stiff a 10 setting is. I think the max I've used is 12, and it's rigid. Also expect to do some experimenting with your settings as monotube shocks are already dialed in to some degree, where as now you'll be tuning to not only suit the ride in the front, but to react well with the rear shocks as well.
 
#4 ·
Yes to anti seize (aluminum on aluminum threads under ~500lbs of spring pressure. I'd recommend the thrust bearings as well, have done it both ways and the bearings are worth the dollars.

Install is way easier than a standard coil spring. Adjust them all the way down and they don't take much pressure to raise the lower control arm. Then adjust them up when you have it all together, just remember to adjust with the weight off the suspension (less pressure on the threads).
 
#7 ·
If I remember correctly the silver is recommended for aluminum. Plus it blends in better than the copper. That's what I used on my Vikings. Anti seize is a MUST! I found the initial low setting of the collars to make it a chore to get them where I wanted them for ride height once installed. Yes it helps because there is little spring pressure to fight you, but I could only move them a small amount before I needed to re position the spanner. So it took a long time. I used a spanner that a buddy had, that was less of a positive engagement to run it up faster. Then the supplied spanner for the last few turns. I even asked the guys at UMI, and they told me they modified their spanner wrench to make it a bit easier. Basically in hindsight I would have started off a little higher prior to install. I set the comp at 8, and the rebound at 10. I haven't touched it since the install, and I am very happy with it. However that can be a personal setting, and depend on the rest of your suspension, and what you expect from it.
 
#8 ·
Dave: Did you coat both sides of the bearing washers?? I want to be sure that I do this correctly, as this is a big chunk of change to dump into my suspension.
 
#16 ·
I see you've already got them installed, but yes. I coated everything, then wiped off the extra after. Even though it took me awhile to spin the collars up. Once I did, they were in the right spot for what I liked. I took measurements on two fixed points on each coil over to get them equal.
 
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#9 ·
I think the best method is to coat all the threads with anti seize, then wipe the bulk of it off with some rags. Where you want it is down in the threads.

The generic "baseline" settings are 1-4 compression - 4-8 rebound. These are baseline and i always recommend to customers to do some testing with these settings.

Every car is different based upon application and driver preferences so It can pay dividends to learn what the settings will do so that you can fine tune your suspension.

Craig
 
#10 ·
I coat the threads on the body and both sides of the bearing...liberally. When done with the install wipe as much off as possible. With the suspension hanging the adjusting nuts can be run up quite far by hand before needing to use the spanner wrench. As I said before make you measurements from the spindle to the fender not from the ground to the fender.
 
#11 ·
Brian
use as much lube you can to ensure the large washers/nuts move freely

A sheet of paper/instructions should have come with the Viking Coil Over Kit

" Recommended baseline points ....
Drag Racing = .......... Front ...... 12 to 18 Compression ........... 0 to 4 Rebound
............................... Rear ....... 0 to 4 Compression ............. 12 to 18 Rebound

Handling = Front & Rear = 7 to 12 Compression / Rebound ..... 13+ for Aggressive handling

Ride Quality = Front & Rear = 2 to 6 Compression / Rebound "

And yes like Dave said start the Washer/Nut/Spring as high as possible for less turning before you install in car
Lube on both sides in case you have to turn back
wipe clean after everything is set to your liking

As a side note but not necessary what you should do
when I first drove the car on the Handling setup it was great for on the curvy roads and even on street/hwy driving
after going to the Track and setting them up for Racing I did not change them back to drive home
there was a slight reduced ride quality/handling, but not something I could not live with
so I drive my car with the Track settings on the Street/Hwy
but if you want to do some Road Coursing or Curvey Roads then set things back to the Handling #s
 
#13 ·
I decided to get them installed this morning. The tool I made for popping the ball joints out worked like a charm - no more damaged boots (thank you to those who posted pictures and descriptions of what they used to make it on other threads). I would much rather install these coil over setups any day of the week over a standard coil spring - these things are a BREEZE to install. The hardest part was the constant jacking up, tire off, making adjustments, tire on, jack down, taking measurements thing.

I ended up pretty close on both side, then took it for a drive. The difference in feel is night and day - these were worth the investment. I did notice more nose dive under braking, so I am presuming that a higher compression setting is in order (unless more nose dive is preferable). I am set at 8 compression and 10 rebound right now. I measured when I got home and both side are now equal.

Thanks to everyone for the guidance and pointers. I think I will start saving for the rear coil over setup now.

P.S. I am MUCH happier with the stance of the car now.
 

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#15 ·
Removing the tire is pretty necessary to make height adjustments, as you really need to come at the coil over from two sides.

The tool is pretty basic. I used the suggested 5/8" rod coupling and two 5/8" coarse thread bolts (I used grade 8, as they did not have the 1 1/4" length in the lower grade bolts). I imagine that you could probably use 1/2" hardware without any issues. They suggested drilling into both bolt heads to form a concave surface (or a dimple, if you will). Unfortunately, I did not have a 3/4" drill bit, so that was kind of pricey to buy. I greased the threads on the bolts and also put grease into the dimples before breaking the ball joints loose.

To use the tool, insert in into place and unscrew one of the bolts until there is contact between the tool and both studs. Hold the rod coupling with one wrench, then turn one of the bolts with another wrench. It will get really tight and turning one of the bolts will take some pressure, but the ball joint popped right loose. I just let the bottom bolt rest on the loosened castle nut, but it should be fine on the stud itself.
 

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#17 ·
Brian good work
the car's stance looks great

I just put on the Viking DA Shocks on my car in the stock location/suspension
as I was happy with how the Rear of my car sat with the stiffer new coil springs

If you go to a Viking Coil Over in the Rear checkout the new setup that UMI Perf has for Brackets
that Bolt onto the stock Brackets on the car's Rearend
they more the Coil Over/Shock setup inward away from the Wheel's inside Rim
 
#18 ·
Does the whole weight of the front of the car rest on just the bar that sits on the lower control arm or is there a solid washer or disc that spreads the load? I was just curious if the stock lower control arm is rigid enough to take the weight. Jim
 
#19 ·
When you convert to coil-overs the T-bar mounts on top of the lower a-arm instead of on the underside like the coil spring set-up.

If your factory lower a-arm is in good condition there shouldn't be any issue. we have many customers that have installed them on factory a-arms.

I've talked to some guys that fab a plate that they install in the spring bucket tack in and drill some holes through it for the T-bar bolts to add strength.

Craig
 
#20 ·
Thanks. I was just curious looking at the stock lower control arms. I think I would cut the cup out of a second set of control arms and double up the thickness just to beef it up a bit. Jim
 
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