Front Suspension Global West - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 07, 7:59 PM Thread Starter
Tech Team
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 38
Front Suspension Global West

I have a 65 chevelle with a totall front negitve roll system(Global West) with Qa1 coil overs. Does any one know the proper alignment, on the upper and lower controll arms? I had the instruction but I lost them, and my local alignment shop dosent know what the heck thier doing and need some instruction or advice..any would help

And my sterring wheel seems a bit loose (has some play) ill dive down around and the damb thing seems to take the car from left to right, should I buy a new power sterring box?
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 07, 8:19 PM
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Doug Davis
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Lake Charles, LA
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Re: Front Suspension Global West

First I would call Global West and ask them If they can supply you with another copy of the instructions. As far as the loose steering issue I'd check all of the front end parts for wear and play before buying a new steering box.

66 Chevelle
350/400 Turbo
12 Bolt Eaton Posi w/3:73's
Team Chevelle Member # 3540
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 07, 8:44 PM
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Location: CA
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Re: Front Suspension Global West


Caster +4.5 to +5 degrees
-0.5 to -0.75 negative camber
toe: 1/32" total toe in

This is very close to GW's recommended "street" spec with the inclusion of a bit more negative camber.

You may have to tailor to your exact driving style but the above will provide even tire wear with moderately aggressive driving with a B-body spindle setup. If you frequently hang hard turns, add more negative camber (try -1 to -1.25) and drop to 0 total toe. You can put cross caster in to compensate for road crown if you want, usually about 0.5 degrees of cross-caster takes care of any pull to the right due to road crown. I prefer to run even caster and just live with the pull to the right on very crowned roads.

The pull you are experiencing may also be the inherent bump-steer of the B-body setup in combination with a loose steering box/tie rods/drag link. Check the steering linkage ASAP as any slop there will let the toe "flutter" which wears tires VERY quickly. My experience has been the drag links get loose quickly on these cars, I usually change mine as soon as they become noticeably loose, which for me is about every 10-15K miles.

If there is no slop in your box or steering linkage, it's probably bump-steer you are dealing with (which is bad with a B-body spindle.) Does the pull primarily occur over bumps & road irregularities?

1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
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