1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 08, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Big D
 
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1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Okay, I have 1997 Suburban 1500, 350....

I'm driving along and it just goes kaput.. dead. Then it would start right back up and off I go. It would do this only once in a while, maybe once a week. This last week more frequently.
A couple days ago the Service Engine light cames on, a code scanner says, the MAF Sensor.
I restarted and the Service Engine light went away.

Two days later.. Thats today.. It died then started, a mile later died then started. Then again, a mile later it died. This time is took twenty minutes for it to start. Got a ride and picked up a MAF Sensor.. Swapped it out.. Burb started.. I made it 20 feet.. died again. 20 minutes later is started. This time I made it about three miles and it died again. I gave up, kids were with me and it was 15 degrees outside. Had it towed.

Now... What the heck is wrong with this thing. When is starts, I can floor it and it doesn't act like its starved for gas... it goes.

I'll be driving then.. the motor just gets quiet... then it dies a few seconds later.

The burb has a 350, new pump and pickup, and socks. New fuel filter.... new MAF sensor.... Why does it keep dying, and why won't it start now except after a 20 minute wait.

I was hoping to avoid another tow to a shop and a large bill.... What do you think.. IF you have any questions feel free to ask.


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post #2 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 08, 11:47 PM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Yikes I read the other thread about this. First off, I am not certain, but a bad MAF should not kill the truck, just make it run like crap. Mine in my 98 went tits up and it just ran like crap.

What I would suspect is the ignition module. On your truck it should sit on the passenger side, just below the fuel injection unit. It mounts on a bracket that kind of sits up off the intake manifold, I recall it having heat sinks on it. Generally when these go bad they act exactly like you are saying. They will run until they heat up, shut down, and then when they cool off again they fire up. If you take it off most any parts store can test it for you, but they don't always test bad if they are. I have a few test OK, but the problem went away after replacing it anyways. I would start there.

Also you can try asking here: www.fullsizechevy.com or just try searching there, lots of good info.

Jeff

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post #3 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 08, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by quikss View Post
Yikes I read the other thread about this. First off, I am not certain, but a bad MAF should not kill the truck, just make it run like crap. Mine in my 98 went tits up and it just ran like crap.

What I would suspect is the ignition module. On your truck it should sit on the passenger side, just below the fuel injection unit. It mounts on a bracket that kind of sits up off the intake manifold, I recall it having heat sinks on it. Generally when these go bad they act exactly like you are saying. They will run until they heat up, shut down, and then when they cool off again they fire up. If you take it off most any parts store can test it for you, but they don't always test bad if they are. I have a few test OK, but the problem went away after replacing it anyways. I would start there.

Also you can try asking here: www.fullsizechevy.com or just try searching there, lots of good info.

Jeff
Thanks Jeff,, yeah one heck of a night...

That makes since and I know right where it is at. I took it off once before when the car was dying and turned out to be the fuel system.. I'll pull it off tonight and have it tested on my way home.. It may save me that 175.00 if I can get them to take the MAF BACK.

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post #4 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 08, 11:54 PM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

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Originally Posted by ChaosEnvy View Post
Thanks Jeff,, yeah one heck of a night...

That makes since and I know right where it is at. I took it off once before when the car was dying and turned out to be the fuel system.. I'll pull it off tonight and have it tested on my way home.. It may save me that 175.00 if I can get them to take the MAF BACK.

Big D
Good luck with that, most auto parts stores will not allow the return of electrical items unless they are bad andf then it is just exchange. Worth a shot though. If I recall correctly my ignition module on the 98 cost me about $100. May have been less, I bought quite a few parts chasing a problem myself.

Jeff

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2007 Trailblazer SS 364CI LS2 475hp 4L70E AWD with 4.10's front and rear!!! Daily Drivin' grocery getter

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post #5 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 08, 11:54 PM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Big D,

First thing I'd suggest is start with the basics. MAF sensor maybe throwing you a curve.

You've got it home. Start it, let it run till it stalls. Check if you are lacking fuel or spark.

I'd first check pos/ground cable at battery, see if they're loose. Wifes Astro had Neg wire loose causing bad connection/stalling.

Spark: Pull a wire off at the cap, have maybe your daughter crank the engine, check for spark from cap to wire. If no spark, I'd
suspect a coil or module faulty when hot.

Fuel: It's F/I so the pump in tank should hum for a couple seconds when ign is in on pos. If good, check valve at fuel rail (like a tire valve),
should be under pressure, spray out not dribble, use a rag. I'm not sure at this point how to check injectors, but
I'd crank engine a few, pull a plug, check if it's wet with fuel.

Wiggle wires around dist, harness at firewall, looking for loose/bad connections.

Jim

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post #6 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr1964 View Post
Big D,

First thing I'd suggest is start with the basics. MAF sensor maybe throwing you a curve.

You've got it home. Start it, let it run till it stalls. Check if you are lacking fuel or spark.

I'd first check pos/ground cable at battery, see if they're loose. Wifes Astro had Neg wire loose causing bad connection/stalling.

Spark: Pull a wire off at the cap, have maybe your daughter crank the engine, check for spark from cap to wire. If no spark, I'd
suspect a coil or module faulty when hot.

Fuel: It's F/I so the pump in tank should hum for a couple seconds when ign is in on pos. If good, check valve at fuel rail (like a tire valve),
should be under pressure, spray out not dribble, use a rag. I'm not sure at this point how to check injectors, but
I'd crank engine a few, pull a plug, check if it's wet with fuel.

Wiggle wires around dist, harness at firewall, looking for loose/bad connections.
THe module is 69.99 at ORielly's.

I can't check the fuel rail.. its TBI, with the vortec plastic manifold with that crappy spider deal inside.. fuel rails are hidden.

I'd say from experience it is getting gas... and because: Its been sitting for about two hours. I just went to the garage... Turn the key on.. I can here the pump.. and its starts right up.. and will idle just perfect. Its when I go to drive it.. I get about a mile or so and kaput.

So at some point.. its losing spark.... The ignition module makes since... because everytime I let it sit for 20 minutes it starts right back up.... drive a mile or so.. and kaput.

Big D
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post #7 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by quikss View Post
Good luck with that, most auto parts stores will not allow the return of electrical items unless they are bad andf then it is just exchange. Worth a shot though. If I recall correctly my ignition module on the 98 cost me about $100. May have been less, I bought quite a few parts chasing a problem myself.

Jeff
I should be able to take it back.. they won't be able to tell I used it.... I don't have the stock black rubber fittings, I have red poly ones and the leave no marks. I can pull that module fairly fast an just have it tested tomorrow at the parts store and hope it is that simple..... $69.99 for limited life time warranty.. and then up to 169.99 for other brands they have.. Oh joy.

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post #8 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 12:21 AM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosEnvy View Post
THe module is 69.99 at ORielly's.

I can't check the fuel rail.. its TBI, with the vortec plastic manifold with that crappy spider deal inside.. fuel rails are hidden.

I'd say from experience it is getting gas... and because: Its been sitting for about two hours. I just went to the garage... Turn the key on.. I can here the pump.. and its starts right up.. and will idle just perfect. Its when I go to drive it.. I get about a mile or so and kaput.

So at some point.. its losing spark.... The ignition module makes since... because everytime I let it sit for 20 minutes it starts right back up.... drive a mile or so.. and kaput.

Big D
There is a valve on the fuel line just before it enters the manifold, but I agree the ignition is more likely the
problem area (ie. coil, module...).

Just trying to rule out possibilities.

ORielly's is a big chain, customer service and all. They should take back the MAF sensor.

Jim

'64 Chevelle SS
383ci, 200-4r w/2800 stall
12bolt w/3.73 posi
My '64 Chevelle SS
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post #9 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr1964 View Post
There is a valve on the fuel line just before it enters the manifold, but I agree the ignition is more likely the
problem area (ie. coil, module...).

Just trying to rule out possibilities.

ORielly's is a big chain, customer service and all. They should take back the MAF sensor.
MAF sensor was from Advance Auto.. they'll take it back.. or I'm getting store credit.... thats all their is too it.

I pulled the ignition module.. its ready to be tested. If the module gets screwy when it gets hot, will the tester they use be able to simulate this?

I usually go to orielly's but advance was close. The guys they have working at orielly's actually know something about cars.. advance auto.. not so much, but they are a big chain as well.

I'm hoping it the module.. take 5 minutes and $70.00 versus hours doing something else.

Thanks...

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post #10 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 12:43 AM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosEnvy View Post
MAF sensor was from Advance Auto.. they'll take it back.. or I'm getting store credit.... thats all their is too it.

I pulled the ignition module.. its ready to be tested. If the module gets screwy when it gets hot, will the tester they use be able to simulate this?

Big D
It can be a hit or miss. Being in the business (AZ) I usually test them several times, even 5 to 6 times to try to get it hot
and replicate the condition to test bad. 2 or 3 times may still test good.

Could also be the coil when it gets hot. But GM is more likely the module.

Jim

'64 Chevelle SS
383ci, 200-4r w/2800 stall
12bolt w/3.73 posi
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post #11 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 2:23 AM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

similiar symtoms in an explorer turned out being a fuel pump relay in the power box.....a $10 part
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post #12 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 7:21 AM
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

does the check engine light come on before it die's?? there is also a crank position sensor that can cause similiar problem but will set the SES light

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post #13 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 7:35 AM
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Smile Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Dave, I had this problem with a vortec 350 at work . It did the exact same thing .After ripping our hair out at the shop trying to find the problem for weeks I found it !!! The distributor shaft bushing wears and the shaft wobbles inside the distributor. You could drive along and wham ! dead. Start back up and run for a while and do it again. We tried everything under the sun before finding that problem. Installed reman distributor and never happened again.

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post #14 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by ktrim View Post
does the check engine light come on before it die's?? there is also a crank position sensor that can cause similiar problem but will set the SES light
No, the light doesn't come on. It only came on once, and I had it checked.. came back MAF sensor. Went off, to never come on again since.


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post #15 of 71 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 08, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 Burb... May not be Chevelle but its a Chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morin69ss396 View Post
Dave, I had this problem with a vortec 350 at work . It did the exact same thing .After ripping our hair out at the shop trying to find the problem for weeks I found it !!! The distributor shaft bushing wears and the shaft wobbles inside the distributor. You could drive along and wham ! dead. Start back up and run for a while and do it again. We tried everything under the sun before finding that problem. Installed reman distributor and never happened again.
Would is start right back up or did you have to wait. I have to wait a good 15-20 minutes before it will start again. I know there is fuel... so I'm thinking something is getting overloaded or too hot.. like a resistor. I already removed the Ignition Module... doesn't smell fried, but who knows. I'll have it tested today. If not, I'll move on to something else.

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