Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank - Chevelle Tech
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View Poll Results: Which Crank should I go with
Reman Existing crank $150 9 69.23%
Buy a reman Crank $150 1 7.69%
Buy an eagle crank $255 2 15.38%
Buy a new advance crank $300 0 0%
Buy a reman 1182 crank for 270 1 7.69%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 9:35 AM Thread Starter
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Andy
 
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Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

So after major damage in the bottom end of my motor (350 with edelbrock RPM performer top end kit, so heads, cam, and intake) I need to make a decision, I either need to have my crank cut, which will be .020 on the rods to get it correct again or buy a new crank. Options are all going to be cast as my budget is pretty small for this motor. (First born son is due any day now). Going forged would be my real goal but $500 isn't in the budget. So I have a few options. 1. Have my crank turned down for $75 and buy $75 worth of bearings and rear main seal. 2 buy a new crank from advance auto parts that has everything in it for $300, 3. Buy a new cast steel crank from Jegs or summit for around $180 plus the $75 for bearings and rear seal. 4. buy a reman crank from advance that is turned .030 on the mains and .020 on the rods for $150. So really they are all around the same price. What would be the best way to go? Any experience with the Eagle cranks from Summit? I know with a lot of the cheaper parts even though they are new they are weaker than a stock part that has been reman'd. In the future I am going to build a different motor for this car so not only is a forged crank over my price range but its also wasted money as I will be building something else at a later date. What are everyones thoughts,

A. Reman my existing crank $150
B. Buy a reman crank $150
C. Buy an eagle new crank $ 255
D.Buy a new advance auto crank $300
E. Buy a Forged reman crank from RockAuto for $275 (just found this option) but who knows how much its been turned

All I learned in high school is I am not Earnhardt and I am not invincible
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 10:16 AM
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Tony
 
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

FWIW, my former 350 was pretty close to what your 350 with a Performer Top End Kit is.

The odds of you needing a forged crank are pretty close to ZERO, IMHO.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 1:11 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

What caused the problem in the first place (low oil level, low oil pressure)? Did any bearings spin? IF it only needs bearings, and isn't anything damaged in the engine, I would go cheap. If only a bearing got wiped out, and crank isn't scored/blued, fine emery cloth on the journal to remove bearing build up, and throw in new bearings. If that fails, then swap in a kit with crank and all new bearings, or start saving for a stroker kit while you are running it!
I had a 225 slant 6 mopar extremely low on oil start hammering away, and 1 rod bearing was wiped out, mains were fine, and crank was decent. $18 later for new rod bearings, and I put over 30,000 hard miles on it after that.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 1:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pioneer4x4 View Post
What caused the problem in the first place (low oil level, low oil pressure)? Did any bearings spin? IF it only needs bearings, and isn't anything damaged in the engine, I would go cheap. If only a bearing got wiped out, and crank isn't scored/blued, fine emery cloth on the journal to remove bearing build up, and throw in new bearings. If that fails, then swap in a kit with crank and all new bearings, or start saving for a stroker kit while you are running it!
I had a 225 slant 6 mopar extremely low on oil start hammering away, and 1 rod bearing was wiped out, mains were fine, and crank was decent. $18 later for new rod bearings, and I put over 30,000 hard miles on it after that.
I wiped out my rod bearing for #1 cylinder. Could have been a # of things, bad clearances, gas in the oil... who knows. It will need to be turned at least .20 on the rods and .10 on the crank. I don't know if I am comfortable with a rod journal cut .20 but I see people do it everyday

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 1:36 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

I think all that matters is proper assembly and clean the block out good flushing the oil passages.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 1:44 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

Absolutely nothing wrong with going 20 on the crank. Or 30 or 40 as far as that goes. If your engine was balanced or even just a matched original assembly, I would stick with the crank you have if you are trying to save money. You will probably need a rod if it hurt the bearing real bad. At very least have it checked. Any of your other options will require rebalancing. The parts store crank kits are junk. A lot of them have been welded up and reground.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 1:45 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

If you go aftermarket, get Scat. Too many Eagles need to be touched-up or turned just to get them to the correct dimensions. Scat's 9000 is the same material as Eagle Cast Steel.
Run from CAT or PROCOMP.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 1:49 PM Thread Starter
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Andy
 
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
Absolutely nothing wrong with going 20 on the crank. Or 30 or 40 as far as that goes. If your engine was balanced or even just a matched original assembly, I would stick with the crank you have if you are trying to save money. You will probably need a rod if it hurt the bearing real bad. At very least have it checked. Any of your other options will require rebalancing. The parts store crank kits are junk. A lot of them have been welded up and reground.
Never thought about balancing, I was under the impression that all the SBC 2 piece seals were internally balanced so it wouldn't make a difference. Makes sense to stay with my original if that regards then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles View Post
If you go aftermarket, get Scat. Too many Eagles need to be touched-up or turned just to get them to the correct dimensions. Scat's 9000 is the same material as Eagle Cast Steel.
Run from CAT or PROCOMP.
Thats what I was interested in was if Eagle was junk or not. Someone else told me locally that a stock cast crank was better than a lot of cheap forged cranks. Not sure how much I believe that...

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 2:24 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

Hi Andy, no matter what decision you make if you use ANY other shaft in there you will need to have it balanced (at least checked), this is "how it all works".

Pay attention to Bill K. with respect to "kits", most times you won't like what you receive?

Thanks, Gary

P.S. You can pick up brand new OEM (G.M., not off-shore) 1182 shafts (these are forged/steel) for about 400.00 with some Clevite brgs if you look around. We just picked up a 1/2 dozen recently.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 3:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOSFAST View Post
Hi Andy, no matter what decision you make if you use ANY other shaft in there you will need to have it balanced (at least checked), this is "how it all works".

Pay attention to Bill K. with respect to "kits", most times you won't like what you receive?

Thanks, Gary

P.S. You can pick up brand new OEM (G.M., not off-shore) 1182 shafts (these are forged/steel) for about 400.00 with some Clevite brgs if you look around. We just picked up a 1/2 dozen recently.
Thanks for the Feedback! Balancing a rotating assembly really isn't in the stars for me right now! I have a 4 bolt block that I am putting together a stroker motor for this car. However I have a Cj-7 that needs to get moving before that will happen so it might be a few years. I want to be able to drive this one on the weekends while I am working on the jeep so really my decision is made!

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 3:15 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

Turn the crank you got. New bearings. No re-balance. Cheap n dirty...well, not so dirty I guess..could have the rods measured to see if they outta round just to be safe, then go from there.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 6:09 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

It would be crazy not to check the rod size!!
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 17, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Andy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artmalibu View Post
It would be crazy not to check the rod size!!
I have a dial bore gauge and micrometer on the way!
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 17, 4:22 AM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

I would just get the rod resized don't mess around, get the crank reground and recheck balance. Also I second getting a scat crank over any other aftermarket cranks.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old May 3rd, 17, 4:49 PM
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Re: Stock Cast Crank or New Cast Crank

My Scat 9000 series 350 crank was perfect out of the box, and barely cost more that reconditioning a used-up stock crank. You should have balance checked though, as I have no idea what bob weight they use when they balance the Scat cranks. I know mine didn't need much correction with Scat 3/8" capscrew rods and speed-pro stock replacement hyper pistons.

I'd go with a Scat, unless you are 100% confident your crank guy does excellent work. $75 is an awfully cheap to re-grind a crank, so I'd be a bit skeptical of the quality. Normally a regrind is $150-175 (around here). Heck, even 25 years ago, I recall it being ~$125 to regrind a crank in PA at the few shops that could do it.
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