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Heavy Chevy

3K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  Iforgot 
#1 ·
A few days ago I was able to get with the new general manager at the Sikeston Dragstrip now known as Jeffers Motorsports Park. They set up the 4 corner scales and weighed my car with me in it. I have always posted the car was 4,000lbs but several times on here it always came into question. It actually made me second guess myself that the car wasn't being weighed correctly. I have tried to keep this car as original "looking" as possible. It has the stock rally rims, full interior to include horse shoe shifter, stock steering wheel, and front factory bucket seats. It has a stereo system that I may take out because I rarely use it. The car was weighed with me in it, my helmet on, a half tank of fuel and a car seat in the back. This is exactly how I drive it. We pulled everything else out of the car. The car has full 3" exhaust going out the back and dumping right under the rear axle. The only fiberglass on the car is the hood and the front bumper. I hate the hood and plan to put a steel one back on it.

The car weighed in at 4079lbs. Again this was done by the General Manager at the dragstrip if anyone feels the need to verify. At that weight I may have to rethink my goals for this year and may just have to be happy with it running 5.60's until I can eventually build me a fully forged LS and run some real boost.





 
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#2 ·
You aren't kidding Heavy Chevy.

I weighed many of my cars on certified scales. all are usually within a few numbers of each other depending on Fuel amount.

My 1957 4 door 210 Chevy is 3800 with me in it and 15x7 rally rims. I am 215 lbs.

I thought my car was heavy.. No cage in mine and it is slow.
5.60's in a 4000+ lb ride that goes from point A to point B.

Great job!!!
 
#3 ·
Looks great and hauls!

Please tell me there's an a/c compressor in there!
If there isn't you need to install one. This way you can sit in the staging lanes with the air on, then shut it off (if you want to) and run 5's in the 1/8th! :thumbsup:

Also, what size sneakers are the rears on what rim?
 
#5 ·
Looks great and hauls!

Please tell me there's an a/c compressor in there!
If there isn't you need to install one. This way you can sit in the staging lanes with the air on, then shut it off (if you want to) and run 5's in the 1/8th! :thumbsup:
Not really, I tried that and they made me leave it off due to water dripping on the track from condensation.
 
#4 ·
Car is undeniably bad a*s fast....but I think that picture of your son and car together is even better.
 
#6 ·
Wow..I thought mine was heavy @ 3700 with a iron head BBC. I did remove the AC/Heat stuff but still have all original steel body panels. Can't help but wonder..where's all the weight at in your car? You've got proof it's 4000 pounds, no denying that..but how in the world could an LS powered 69 with some 'glass panels be heavier than an all steel BBC 69? What kind of cage is in the car?

Just makes it much more of a cool ride going 5's, getting from A to B, and STILL weighing 4000. Very, very cool car, and I agree that's a nice pic with your son by the car!! Teach'em young what a real muscle car is :thumbsup:

What don't you like about the glass hood? Mine's still the stock hood, I'm thinking about a lift off fiberglass but not sure I'd like it since it's so easy to open a factoyr hood- no pins or dzus fasteners to fight with.
 
#11 ·
I agree. Now that I feel I have the hang of it. I may start building one slowly a little at a time over the next couple of years. Assuming I can get this one to stay together.
 
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#16 ·
I have heard the same thing. On the junkyward 6.0 I referred to earlier, when I changed the camshaft and put rings in it we re-used the original bearings- they looked OK, well, they looked great considering that engine had around 80,000 on the odometer BEFORE he got it and starting racing it. It's an aluminum block 6.0, and so far in addition to the original mileage, I'd say it's got way over 1000 passes on it. Shifts it at 6700, and it sound oh so sweet up there, too. We did put ARP rod bolts in it when we re-ringed it- and put the original bearings back in lol- I wanted him to get the big end on the rods checked, but he was in a hurry so we didn't. Not sure what we could have done anyway, since it's a fractured cap rod. That was about 500 passes ago.. still going strong.

From what I hear, the weak link in the junkyard motors is sometimes they have cam bearing problems (spinning in the bores). The machine shop I use (Russ Miley Racing Engines) so far hasn't had bearing problems using King and Clevite bearings. But I can believe the GM bearings would be better, based on what I've saw these junkyard engines do.

If I do a LS build using new parts, I'll start with an iron 6.0 block. Like you, even though the aluminum blocks seem pretty tough, I'd rather use an iron block for racing..
 
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