Correct way to weld axle tubes - Chevelle Tech
Performance Our High Performance area

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Bowling Green, KY, US
Posts: 1,826
Post

Looking for information on correctly welding axle tubes. Specifically on a 10 bolt 8.5" Chevy rear.

The truly correct way appears to be to heat the completely disassemble rear in an oven and tig/mig with the correct gas and wire in a jig or straighten.

I don't have access to a jig, but have a welder friend that can tig weld with some high nickel rod and heat up with a torch to put heat in the punkin.

WIll also call up some local drag chassis builders and see if they can do it, but even that isn't a guarantee it will be done right.

The last thing I want to have happen is to put stress on the axles cause the housing isn't straight.

Anyone comments?
Thanks

Doug
1972 Nova
Nitrous 582
8.50@160
Doug F. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 12:59 PM
TJC
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 440
Post

Doug, never done it, but I know if you want to heat the pumpkin evenly and effectively, you can use a backyard bbq. Works really well, and you don't get the distortion of a torch. It will also bake out the fluid that's going to be present in the joint. After that I would just stick weld it. Although you might have trouble finding someone who remembers how use a stick!
TJC is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 4:35 PM
Tech Team
Rob
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Warner Robins GA.
Posts: 790
Post

Doug, I welded the tubes on my 12 bolt without any trouble. I gutted the housing and washed it out best I could. I put a good tack on each tube in about 4 places then stitched welded 3/4" to 1" with a MIG letting it cool down between welds. Worked great for me.
66rat is offline  
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 9:55 PM
Senior Tech Team
Dennis
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: kansas
Posts: 2,637
Post

getting ready to do this again to another rear end in my drag car. being a welder myself and i still remember how to stick weld...lol....i just use the 6011 rod low hydro. i use a wire wheel on my hand grinder and clean two areas on each side about 2 inches long and run two welds about 1 1/2" long. making 4 welds total....weld one and flip over to the otherside real quick and run the other one...never weld on it when its cold best to do it above 75 degrees and dont cool the weld down with nothing if anything cover it with some rags to hold some of the heat in.....this is enough weld to hold the pumpkin in place really no need to weld all the way around unless your looking at just to seal it from leaks.....other parts will break before the pumpkin will turn up on you.

http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/ddeennis/
pics of projects and whatever.
ddeennis is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 11:48 PM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,523
Post

You won't believe how bent an axle tube can get if not welded in a jig. My Son and I just finished narrowing a Furd Nine inch for his 70 Nova and fought with alignment all the way. We had a nice tool to use for checking alignment as we progressed. It consisted of one pair of bushings that were mounted in the carrier saddles and another pair of bushings that went in the axle bearing housing ends, then a 1.5 inch diameter solid bar passed through all the bushings for a perfect alignment. Every weld on this housing caused movement, even the leaf spring perches, and the solid bar couldn't hold it in alignment. We ended up having to heat and quench (shrink) areas in order to get this thing perfect. I would bet that any GM rearend that has had the tubes welded solid at the centersection without a good jig is definately out of alignment. JMO. Bob
baddbob71 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome