Correct way to weld axle tubes - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Bowling Green, KY, US
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Looking for information on correctly welding axle tubes. Specifically on a 10 bolt 8.5" Chevy rear.

The truly correct way appears to be to heat the completely disassemble rear in an oven and tig/mig with the correct gas and wire in a jig or straighten.

I don't have access to a jig, but have a welder friend that can tig weld with some high nickel rod and heat up with a torch to put heat in the punkin.

WIll also call up some local drag chassis builders and see if they can do it, but even that isn't a guarantee it will be done right.

The last thing I want to have happen is to put stress on the axles cause the housing isn't straight.

Anyone comments?

1972 Nova
Nitrous EFI 582
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 12:59 PM
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Doug, never done it, but I know if you want to heat the pumpkin evenly and effectively, you can use a backyard bbq. Works really well, and you don't get the distortion of a torch. It will also bake out the fluid that's going to be present in the joint. After that I would just stick weld it. Although you might have trouble finding someone who remembers how use a stick!
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 4:35 PM
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Doug, I welded the tubes on my 12 bolt without any trouble. I gutted the housing and washed it out best I could. I put a good tack on each tube in about 4 places then stitched welded 3/4" to 1" with a MIG letting it cool down between welds. Worked great for me.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 9:55 PM
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getting ready to do this again to another rear end in my drag car. being a welder myself and i still remember how to stick just use the 6011 rod low hydro. i use a wire wheel on my hand grinder and clean two areas on each side about 2 inches long and run two welds about 1 1/2" long. making 4 welds total....weld one and flip over to the otherside real quick and run the other one...never weld on it when its cold best to do it above 75 degrees and dont cool the weld down with nothing if anything cover it with some rags to hold some of the heat in.....this is enough weld to hold the pumpkin in place really no need to weld all the way around unless your looking at just to seal it from leaks.....other parts will break before the pumpkin will turn up on you.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 04, 11:48 PM
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You won't believe how bent an axle tube can get if not welded in a jig. My Son and I just finished narrowing a Furd Nine inch for his 70 Nova and fought with alignment all the way. We had a nice tool to use for checking alignment as we progressed. It consisted of one pair of bushings that were mounted in the carrier saddles and another pair of bushings that went in the axle bearing housing ends, then a 1.5 inch diameter solid bar passed through all the bushings for a perfect alignment. Every weld on this housing caused movement, even the leaf spring perches, and the solid bar couldn't hold it in alignment. We ended up having to heat and quench (shrink) areas in order to get this thing perfect. I would bet that any GM rearend that has had the tubes welded solid at the centersection without a good jig is definately out of alignment. JMO. Bob
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