press in rocker studs? - Chevelle Tech
Performance Our High Performance area

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 07, 2:09 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: colorado
Posts: 7
press in rocker studs?

I have a stock set of cylinder heads #041, that have a few messed up studs. Does anyone know of a cheap, easy, way to pull them and of course replace them. I've done a bit of bowl work and the valves are fairly new, so I'd like to keep them for awhile until I can afford a different set of heads. Thank you!
danoman31 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 07, 4:32 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kapaa Kauai Hawaii
Posts: 8,683
Re: press in rocker studs?

If you are not going to reuse the studs put a washer at the base of the stud put a spacer that just fits and run the nut down with an impact the spacer will pull the stud out if not real tight also you may be able to find the proper tool and rent it.


Mike Lewis street 572
Holley HP EFI
Marcella Manifolds
Heads by Darin Morgan
Wires from Rick@Firecore
Cam by UDHarold
.456 X 1.8/1.7
Menscer Motorsports
R2C Filters
Ultra Carbon
TRZ FAB 9" 4.56 REM, Cryo Treated
4000 lb street car
My Showroom
aukai is online now  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 07, 10:59 AM
Senior Tech Team
Bill R
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Gold Canyon, AZ
Posts: 2,674
Re: press in rocker studs?

Replacing press-in studs is a real pain. They can be removed with spacers and impact wrench like aukai said. But replacing them is the hard part. . . . .
You will need to ream the holes slightly oversize and use oversize studs, I think the are either .003" or .005" over. If you put standard size studs back in, they will eventually pull out.

The very best fix is to take the heads to a quality machine shop and have screw in studs installed. They will mill off part of the head to make room for the jam nut on the stud and tap the hole. These operations must be done on a vertical mill or similar machine, in order to get the holes tapped straight.

An alternative would be to pin the studs. To do this you drill horizontally through the head and stud and install a roll pin. Pinning works OK, as long as spring pressures are not much higher than stock - in my opinion.

Bottom line, if you have invested time and/or $$$ in the heads, then it is best to have the screw-in studs installed.

64 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe (original owner) car now has 427" BB, Jerico 5-spd. trans., Dana 60 rear end.

SAE Member (25+ years)
ASE Master Certified Engine Machinist
AERA Certified Professional Engine Machinist
engineguy is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 07, 11:11 AM
Senior Tech Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,812
Re: press in rocker studs?

If you take your heads to a machine shop for screw in studs have them take 020 off of them , you might be suprised..
66 BRONZE is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 07, 12:22 PM
Super Mod
Mr Bill
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: Waldorf Md. USA
Posts: 10,421
Re: press in rocker studs?

If you only have a couple, Pioneer makes a screw in repair stud that does not have the hex shoulder on it. All you do is remove the old stud, thentap the hole to 7/16 x 14. No need to mill anything, just screw the repair stud in and you are good to go. The existing hole is the correct size for the tap, so as long as you are somewhat carefull keeping the tap straight, it is a pretty easy job. The Pioneer number for the stud is RM348. Your machine shop should be able to get them for you if they dont already have some.

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
1984 Buick Riviera - original owner (Wife's car)
Team Chevelle #100
BillK is online now  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 21st, 07, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: colorado
Posts: 7
Re: press in rocker studs?

Thanks guy's!
I'm on limited budget so I needed to find a way to do this myself. Years ago I was in a Votech school and had to learn how to completely rebuild heads as part of the training, but 25 years later the memory has fogged up a bit, and the lack of the proper tools doesn't help either. I think I'll try the BillK method first, then if that doesn't work I guess it's off to the machine shop. I'd rather save the $$ for a newer/better set of heads to install screw in studs and guide plates. Thanks again for all that answered!!!
danoman31 is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 07, 9:52 PM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,965
Re: press in rocker studs?

i need to reup this topic for a second. one of my press-in studs' threads got chewed up from a loose rocker arm. im going to pull it out and use that part # RM348. does that new stud have the nut at the bottom? if so its going to be too tall isnt it? i measured the length of my busted stud and from the hole to the tip it's 1 5/8 inch.
curley8788 is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 07, 10:10 PM
Senior Tech Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,558
Re: press in rocker studs?

Like BillK says: Since I worked in a machine shop, I was able to grind a pilot on the 7/16X14 tap about 5/8" long that guided the tap into the hole straight. I strongly suggest that if you try threading them yourself, you buy a tap and find a local grinding shop to put a pilot on it. Just make the pilot about .374" and the threads will come out perfect. You will still need the studs that are used without the jam nuts.

For removing the studs with a nut and washers, you can use the rocker balls for spacers. If you should decide to ream the holes larger and pin the oversize studs, drill an 1/8" hole that only kisses about 1/16" of the stud, and use 1/8" roll pins. Don't drill the hole through the middle of the stud, as it only weakens the stud and the stud boss. Before you try drilling the studs, try putting a file mark in them to make sure they are soft enough to drill. I recommend that you make some form of drill fixture to get all the holes in the right place.

406 SB, Original Bill Thomas '63 Rochester FI
AFR 210, Lunati 501C2LUN, 255/263@.050", .628"
10:1, TH400, 3.31's, 4400 SS

"Life is too short to not run a solid roller cam."
"Nothing is impossible; if you don't know what you're talking about."
kirkwoodken is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Old Thread Warning
This Thread is more than 3554 days old. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
If you still feel it is necessary to make a new reply, you can still do so though.

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome