BBC One-piece oil pan gasket-advice? - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 03, 8:39 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys. I'm trying out the one-piece Fel Pro oil pan gasket on my (MK IV-style) 454. Fel Pro says install it dry and torque it to factory specs. Anyone have any comments on this? Any problems? Thanks.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 03, 11:15 PM
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I had one, kind of a PITA too install. Had to buy longer bolts for the pan because the thing is so thick. However, I was told, I believe in the instructions to put a good RTV in the corners where it goes over the bottom of the timing cover and the same on the rear most main cap. Hope that helps.

Matt

Nice gasket by the way leak free for me.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 03, 11:24 PM
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I would not use RTV, too thick seems like too much overkill aunless you used a very light coat. I used permatex high tack gasket glue in the corneres, it is basically gasgacinch, it is a very thin glue, i applied just a little bit, and evern a bit of that squeezed out of the corners, it just helps seal and keeps the gasket from moving, other than that just make sure everything is very oil free, use brake cleaner on the pan rails. and put it on, you might need longer bolts on the timing cover bolts!

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 03, 11:40 PM
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My instructions also called for a dab of RTV in the corners. I am on the third different BB and have yet to have a leak.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 03, 11:45 PM
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Does anyone have a part number for this item? Thanks. Dave
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 11:03 AM
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I put my one piece gasket in my 5.0 in dry, no leaks!! To make matters worse, I could not get the @#$%$#%pan to clear the K member and had to slip the gasket in with the pan still under the engine.

I would rather not use any extra sealant or silicone with that type of gasket, just asking for trouble. The silicone was only necessary to fill the gap between the end seals and side rails.

I suppose if the front cover and pan do not line up well you will have to use some sealant, but I would rather have a better fit to start.

The Ford gasket came with plastic tabs to keep the gasket from moving(and it even held the pan in place) so you should not need adhesive either.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Dave, I'll dig up the PN later and post it here.
Thanks for the responses. There were no instructions in or on the sealed Fel Pro box, so I called their tech people, and they said to install it dry, so I did. Hope it doesn't leak, if I gotta change it I'll be a little . I managed to use all the original bolts, too. We'll see...

Bill Lynch
Chicago Gearheads Car Club / Lynch Mob Racing

*1968 Nova (race car in progress)
*1959 Olds Super 88 (weird cruiser)
*1958 Chevy Delray Sedan Delivery (ex-Yellowstone car)
*1967 Impala SS Convertible
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 12:45 PM
 
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Bill, you should be good to go. I had used the 4 piece cork/rubber pan gasket originally and had a leak at the rear. Pulled the motor and pan, checked the rear main and reinstalled (dry) with the Fel-Pro 1 piece. I found that the 2 bolts on either side of the rear main cap (where the gasket is extra thick) were too short. Longer bolts from the h/w store solved that and the leak was gone after firing back up.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 1:33 PM
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Here are Two numbers First is a Summit Racing part number FPP-1884R, the next is a new FelPro number OS 30061T you can get both at Summit
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 7:00 PM
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I have the 1 pc felpro pan gasket on my 396 and it works decent. But i was not happy that no info was included with the gasket concerning the CORRECT torque for the bolts which would obviously be different than the stock thin type.

I called Felpro and i asked for an engineer that was familier with the newer1 pc pan gasket for the BBC which i supposedly got to confer with.

I told him i felt that after unsing the stock GM torque specs on my new gassket i felt they were too tight and i could see that the gasket was too compressed which he agreed i was correct about.

The stock GM torque specs for my 69 396 stock pan are as follows:

Large bolts,14lbs/168 inch lbs

small bolts,7lbs/84 inch lbs

Felpro eng stated the correct torque specs to be as follows for the new 1pc BBC pan gasket which were considerably less than the stock GM torque specs:

Large bolts,100 inch lbs

Small bolts,60 inch lbs

He had no foot lb torque specs.

He also said to use some rtv (sparingly) on all four corners of the pan as you would usually do.

I also suggested that felpro needed to included a simple slip of paper with the correct bolt torque specs for this new 1 pc gasket along with at least the 4 smaller pan bolts that needed to be longer in the gasket kit for a clean complete kit/installation. He was not very open to the idea,how much would it have cost Felpro to include 1 small slip of papper with the new specs and 2 new $.25 cent bolts.

I guess Frlpro does not care if we over torque the pan gasket which would eventually leak and require someone to pull the motor at a later date to replace the pan gasket again.

Hope this info helps you guys on this site.

Scott

SCOTT
1969 CHEVELLE SS396,ORIGINAL #'S MATCH,GOT IN 1978,(In 2001 rblt/bored original 396 .030 to 402)/M20/12BOLT/3:31'S
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 8:05 PM
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I put mine to 60 in/lbs, just as the felpro guy told me. He also told me to put the RTV so I put a very small amount. Also, my ARP bolt kit had a handy little sheet to tell the order to tighten them in, just thought I'd add my .02.

Matt

70 SS 396
11:1 496/TH400
4.10 gears
Bests:
60' 1.58
1/4 11.64
MPH 113.76
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/chevelle.jpg
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I'm not sure what to do now. I followed the Fel Pro tech guys advice to install it dry and torque to factory specs - which did seem tight, but it has those sleeves where the bolts pass thru to keep you from crushing it, so I figured it'd be OK. No RTV, either. It is really ridiculous that there are no printed directions with these hi-priced gaskets. I don't know if I should leave it alone, or pull the damn thing off and put the stock type back on - I've got it sitting on my shelf. I was gonna drop the motor in tomorrow morning. Guess I'll be up half the night trying to decide what to do

Bill Lynch
Chicago Gearheads Car Club / Lynch Mob Racing

*1968 Nova (race car in progress)
*1959 Olds Super 88 (weird cruiser)
*1958 Chevy Delray Sedan Delivery (ex-Yellowstone car)
*1967 Impala SS Convertible
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 11:33 PM
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I'd go for it, it's a lot better gasket than the stock type ones. Good luck, Have fun dropping in the new motor!! [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

70 SS 396
11:1 496/TH400
4.10 gears
Bests:
60' 1.58
1/4 11.64
MPH 113.76
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/chevelle.jpg
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, it looks like it sealed pretty well... hope it did - I'm gonna leave it. I'll re-post if it ends up being a leaker... hope you don't hear from me! Thanks again to all.

Bill Lynch
Chicago Gearheads Car Club / Lynch Mob Racing

*1968 Nova (race car in progress)
*1959 Olds Super 88 (weird cruiser)
*1958 Chevy Delray Sedan Delivery (ex-Yellowstone car)
*1967 Impala SS Convertible
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 10:22 PM
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I installed mine by first of course cleaning the block surface very well to a "hospital clean finish". I guess you could compare a open engine to a doing surgery.One advantage I had was that it was upside down on the engine stand.
I then laid the oil pan on the block surface to check that it sits flat. This is especially important if you are using studs that had to be ground down. I would really recommend this since summer I took out the engine 5 times trying to find a leak when all along it was a stud hitting the pan.

I used a Mr.Gasket stud kit instead of the oil pan bolts. These should create a better seal. A kit is probably like $20 US. I installed them using a threadlocker. I used Red but should have used Blue.

I installed it 2 different ways.
The first time was when the engine was in the car. I first used Acetone to clean the block surface. Next I applied a thin layer of contact cement to the block and the gasket with a small brush. Try to use a decent brush to reduce the amount of brush hairs coming out.Then I waited 5 mins for the glue to set and then installed the gasket. This was a dry install. This method was recommended by GrumpyVette.

The other way was to put a small dab of silocone on the 4 corners where there is a "step" in gasket/block. Then I just screwed on the nuts. With this method there were no leaks from the pan but there is one from somewhere else. I haven't tracked it down yet. Might have to use some of that dye. It drips from the oil filter.

I hope this helps, by any chance would anyone have a answer to my ARP bolt question in Transmissions?
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