Re: Aluminum heads/ coolant
I like using over the counter premixed stuff from my local Honda dealership. It's an OAT formula made for all-aluminum or nearly all-aluminum applications and it also has a surfectant included (which is what waterwetter is.)
Using some RMI-25 is also a good bet; it's a mildly "soapy" cleaner, lubricant, and surfectant all in one. However, because of its cleaning properties it can "find" leaks though in older or poorly maintained cooling systems once it cleans the buildup off.
I also run magnesium sacrifical anodes in both heads and in the block plugs. You can get them from McMaster-carr. They're made for water heater use, but just cut them to length (keep them as long as possible) and thread them in.
Also, someone please show me where using distilled water is bad in a cooling system. High calcium and/or mineral content in tap water (or worse, well water) usually causes big problems with scale buildup in a short amount of time. Distilled water does away with the majority of the mineral content and keeps scale buildup at a minimum.
Using DI water (especially straight) in a cooling system is another matter entirely; DI water has a very low dissolved solids content and is rather high in conductivity which will accelerate electrolysis in your cooling system-- that's bad.
Running water only, in any circumstances, isn't the preferred method. You don't get the additional ph balancers, anti-corrosion additives, and water pump lubricants that a good coolant brings to the table.
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
Last edited by Gokou; Mar 27th, 06 at 5:10 PM.