Originally Posted by BarefootDave
Thats what I thought...must be an "old timer" kinda thing. I remember hearing about that 29 yrs ago when I used to build engines.
You're right Bill......I found my note and they measure 2.3267 but what Kenson suggests is 3.252. Do I need to rebuild the big end of the rods to get that # correct? If so I guess I got what I paid for ($100 for the rods with new Pioneer bolts, balanced/weighed and sized). They charge $120 just to size the rods....sound about right?
Thanks for any other input from any knowledgeable BB builders!
Yes you need to have them redone. That is way too damn big.
The only thing that holds the bearing in the rod is the crush & with a thou & a half extra bore you will have about none,,, not good.
On the "taper" I am assuming he is talking about cutting the cap at an angle to pull the parting line in & this is an old production rebuilder trick so the rod will clean up at the parting line & look pretty.
I don't believe in it but it is done & it does work.
Back when we used the stock GM rods we actually ground the cap at a slight angle the other way to add more clearance at the parting line for hi RPM deals so the bearing would not "grab" the crank at the parting line when the rod distorted.
This was part of the way I got bearings to stay where they belonged in L88 rods with TRW pistons at 8500+,,,
I am not recommending doing this today with the better rods & lighter pistons available,,,
But,, back to your deal,, you need to either start with a fresh set of rods (my choice) or have yours redone but be advised they are going to get shorter every time you resize them. Not a huge deal in a stock grocery getter but not the best plan in a performance build.