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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 7:07 PM Thread Starter
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Tony
 
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Problem with SPI epoxy

Hi,

I just laid down two coats of unreduced SPI epoxy on my dash and am experiencing what looks like solvent pop. I let it flash one hour between coats. Any thoughts? This is the first time I have had this problem. Was spraying with a DeVilbiss HVLP gun at ~12 psi. Thanks for any feedback.

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 8:04 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70L34 View Post
Hi,

I just laid down two coats of unreduced SPI epoxy on my dash and am experiencing what looks like solvent pop. I let it flash one hour between coats. Any thoughts? This is the first time I have had this problem. Was spraying with a DeVilbiss HVLP gun at ~12 psi. Thanks for any feedback.
12 psi coming in the gun? Way low if so.
I am not familiar with SPI enough to comment on their products.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 8:19 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70L34 View Post
Hi,

I just laid down two coats of unreduced SPI epoxy on my dash and am experiencing what looks like solvent pop. I let it flash one hour between coats. Any thoughts? This is the first time I have had this problem. Was spraying with a DeVilbiss HVLP gun at ~12 psi. Thanks for any feedback.
I'm not familiar with their product either, but for any other epoxy, you only wait 10-15 minutes between coats. Are you sure you're not seeing small fisheyes?

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 8:20 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

If you put it on too heavy it will do this. Also if you used solvent or there water based wax/grease remover and didn't let it flash off it will do this. As stated above 12 psi to the gun is too low.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 8:32 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

Call Barry at SPI and he will have an answer for your problem. You can even call him on a Sunday. He is a great guy to talk to with a lot of info

Jim
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 8:38 PM
Jim
 
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

You can post on the SPI forum and get a better answer than you can get here.

www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 9:00 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

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Originally Posted by jcbrown View Post
You can post on the SPI forum and get a better answer than you can get here.

www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php
Really? Gee none of us has experience Just the guys at SPI

Which gun is it? but the lowest I'm aware of is 23lbs trigger pulled.
I own several DeVilbiss guns, Plus, FLG-3, Sri Pro

And most recoat windows are 15-30 minutes.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 9:11 PM
Jim
 
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

Chuck, I didn't mean to come off that way but it didn't seem like he was getting the answer he was looking for.

Jim
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 9:17 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

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Originally Posted by Chucks68SS View Post
Really? Gee none of us has experience Just the guys at SPI

Which gun is it? but the lowest I'm aware of is 23lbs trigger pulled.
I own several DeVilbiss guns, Plus, FLG-3, Sri Pro

And most recoat windows are 15-30 minutes.

Chuck
That's because for some reason I have yet to figure out, SPI products are better than every other manufacturer's.

The OP may be confusing pressure at the cap with inlet pressure, also causing him problems additional to his fisheyes or solvent pop. This is the second time I read people having problems with SPI and unevaporated waterborne W&G remover. If that what his problem is. It will also do it with solvent W&G remover. All recoat times are on the TDS for all manufacturers. And often they are never read.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 9:18 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

Jim, Poster should say what gun he is using as not all HVLP's are the
same. And there are at least two other posters that know what they
are doing. Problem is at least pressure and recoat time. Could be
more temp, mixing etc. Remember help is as good as the info given.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 9:34 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

ANY paint will react to unevaporated solvents, whether you see a pop or not, so always wipe on, reverse rag, wipe off and let evaporate @ 65degrees for best results. This isn't an SPI only issue.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 9:57 PM
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Scott
 
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

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Originally Posted by cheveslakr View Post
ANY paint will react to unevaporated solvents, whether you see a pop or not, so always wipe on, reverse rag, wipe off and let evaporate @ 65degrees for best results. This isn't an SPI only issue.

Jerry
No it isn't an SPI peculiar incident and I should have clarified that. It was just the SPI users who were encountering this problem recently. Having been painting for 25 years I should have been more thorough with my statement. Apologies.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 10, 10:49 PM
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

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Originally Posted by Raven1 View Post
No it isn't an SPI peculiar incident and I should have clarified that. It was just the SPI users who were encountering this problem recently. Having been painting for 25 years I should have been more thorough with my statement. Apologies.
It's all good, just seems SPI products create a division and the responses are predictable.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 12th, 10, 6:32 AM
von
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

I've had problems with fisheyes when painting a dash, presumably from some silicone remaining from silicone-based cleaners like Armorall. Even though the dash was sanded and cleaned with w&g remover, evidently enough silicone was still present to cause the fisheyes. Wet sanding and more wiping with w&g remover finally got the problem solved.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Dec 23rd, 10, 5:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Problem with SPI epoxy

Wow, thanks for the (exciting) replies to this post! I f'd up and set the pressure at the gun inlet way too low per my buddy's recommendation. Totally my fault, not SPI's. It's a Devilbiss Finish Line HVLP gun, probably 15 years old. The primer looks a lot better after curing and should sand out with 400 from the looks of the imperfections.

Changing subject: What type of reducer should I use to mix this as as sealer?

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