Vinyl Top Replacement
A. - How hard is it and step by step instructions on replacing a vinyl top on a '69 chevelle.
R.T. - If you feel confident stretching and trimming vinyl, I'd say you probably could replace your own vinyl top. Most of all. a healthy dose of patience is a definite must. I can give you a step by step, but instead of putting it all down and possibly telling you something you already may know, tell me which parts of the installation you need to know.
step-1 Molding removal
step-2 Old top removal
step-3 Roof preparation
step-4 Vinyl top installation
step-5 Molding replacement
A. - I need step 4 (installation) most of all. R.T.- Since you mentioned in your E-mail that you've replaced your quarters, I'll assume your window channels are in good shape. If you can remove the windshield clips, do so (or as many as possible) but be very careful working around the w/s glass since (as you may know) cracks will develop from nicks in the edge. Mark a chalk line from top center over w/s to top center over back glass, then a center line on fabric side of vinyl top. Lay the top on the roof and align center lines, making sure there is enough vinyl to extend down the "A" pillar posts and sail panels. Depending on the top you purchased, you may either have heat sealed front extensions for the "A" pillar posts or will have to add them later. If they are in place already, move your top fore or aft to line these seams up to go where the originals were. I'm guessing about 2-3" down from top of w/s. Now that you have located the position of the top, use a scissors to trim excess leaving 6" overlap on sides around door glass. Leave plenty of excess vinyl around sail panels. Trim out back window to leave about 12" excess. The following should be done out of direct sunlight since it will make top application more difficult. Lay the top onto a clean flat surface, then apply vinyl top adhesive (important that it be for this purpose) to the entire top, including the window channels. This can be either brushed or sprayed, but avoid puddling of adhesive. Do the same for the steel roof, allow 3-5 minutes to become tacky. Lay two 3'x5' sheets of either kraft paper or plastic vapor barrier on roof of car leaving about 3" gap at center line. Have a friend help you to lift and flip vinyl top onto roof, aligning center lines. When you are certain the top is properly aligned front to rear as well as side to side, press vinyl to steel down center. By pulling the vinyl taut and slowly removing the barrier sheet, you can continue pressing the vinyl down to the car roof. If something doesn't lay down properly, and you gave the adhesive enough time to set up, you will be able to gently lift it and reposition, but don't panic if it grabs, use heat from a hair dryer to help it along. When you have gotten all the vinyl in place except for the sail panels, have your friend pull downward under the quarter glass while you pull to the rear of the car keeping in mind that you wand the vinyl to approach the roof in as wrinkle free a state as possible. When the two of you have it looking good, one should remove the remainder of the barrier sheet as you both bring the vinyl to the roof. Slick this down into position to all edges. If you've gotten this far, plan on celebrating with a few beers, but not now, you still have the channels to do. An experienced trimmer will know exactly how much excess to leave for the channel tucking, but you will have to do a little trial and error. Of course more is definitely better than less in this case, but when you've trimmed to the right length, cut "V" notches at all clip studs and tuck excess vinyl into the window channels. If the clips were left in, use a dull spatula to tuck vinyl in behind clip in a single layer. Do not allow to fold over double, or you'll have problems getting your moldings back on. You should have a separate strip of vinyl supplied with your top (or enough excess) to add the rear valance (Between rear glass and trunk). This is applied the same as the rest of the top, and you will cut it to length allowing enough excess to roll under 1/2" and overlapping main top 1/2". Glue these together using a vinyl to vinyl cement (Pool liner repair cement works for this). If your top didn't come with heat sealed front extensions do the same here. The drip rails should be tucked to the bottom of the groove using the same dull spatula used on the window channels. Trim excess vinyl halfway between the upper and lower outer edge of the drip rail. Now is the best time to add your back glass and apply silicone sealer onto the vinyl in the channel. Add all moldings and you're done. Now you can go for those beers.Archivist: Tom Wilson
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