Maybe we're getting old, but things that were seemingly insignificant a few years ago, now seem quite critical to the proper operation of our Chevelles. Like proper heating and cooling (climate control) for instance. Rusty control cables and a lack of lubrication contribute significantly to the demise of most heater/air conditioning control assemblies. The problem is, finding a good used unit for your '66-7 Chevelle in the junkyard is next to impossible, and if you're lucky enough to locate an NOS item, the price is likely to be astronomical.Thank goodness for Gary's Classic Chevy Parts. Owner Gary Wilbanks has devised a way of repairing old levers in such a way that they're actually stronger than new. With many satisfied customers who've put his part to the test, Gary sent us a set of his levers for installation on our inoperative control module. Of course, for those of you who aren't quite as adventurous, Gary will also rebuild your original or sell you one of his restored pieces outright. Prices for his refurbished controls start at about $125 for a complete unit. But since cores are becoming increasing difficult to locate, you may want to call to confirm current pricing and availability.
And while we've shown you how to repair your control unit, now is also the best time to remove all your control cables and either replace them or make sure they are well lubricated and operating freely. Otherwise, you'll be spending more money with Gary in the not-too-distant future.
1. With the housing removed, begin your disassembly by removing
the control lever knobs. They are only pressed in place, but
the stubborn ones may require some extra coaxing. A rag-wrapped
pliers will usually loosen even the most difficult knobs.
2. The control unit bezel assembly is retained with several spring
clips. Simply pry up on them to remove them. Be sure to note
the ends of the clips and which way they are installed; it makes
a difference!
3. Once accomplished, the metal bezel can be removed, along with
the plastic control face and black backing plate. Soak both plastic
pieces in a soapy solution for cleanup and evaluation.
4. After removing the pin retainer clip, you can extricate the
control lever pivot pin by pulling it straight up, so you'll know
how to reinstall the replacements. Draw a diagram, if necessary,
to remind yourself.
5. With the pivot pin removed, slide the levers all the way to
the right, then pull them out through the enlarged opening. Reverse
the procedure to install the new replacements.
6. With the new levers in place, align their pivot holes and
reinsert the pivot pin. Just in case you forgot to note how the
levers should be reinstalled, here's a peek.
7. To ensure the control sliders would continue to slide like
they should, we lubricated them and the part of the housing that
they slide on with white grease. Coat the pivot pin at this time,
as well.
8. After a good soaking and cleaning, our control face still
didn't meet our needs, so we popped for a new one. What a difference!
We also refaced the black backing plate with a Testors paint
marker.... generally found in the modeling section of most toy
departments.
9. Ultra-fine 0000 steel wool was once again used to clean up
all the brightwork. If your metal bezel face needs repainting,
now's the time to treat it to some Krylon semi-gloss black.
10 a&b Reassemble the face to the housing using the spring retainer
clips. Remember what we said about being sure to install the
clips the right way? The control lever knobs simply push back
into place; if you notice they're loose, apply a small dab of
silicone to the lever before pushing them in place.
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