Last issue, we introduced a 1970 SS396 convertible as the focus of an article on making a "long-distance deal" on a Chevelle. Astute readers will recall that the Chevelle was powered by a rare L78 (375hp) version of the 396. Research indicates that Chevelles produced in 1970 with the L78 option numbered only 2144 units (compared to 4475 LS6, and 4298 LS5 cars), making them a pretty rare commodity. Armed with that information, a decision on what to do with the car was easy; obviously, here was a Chevelle worthy of a current state-of -the-art restoration.

Since that article first appeared in SUPER CHEVY Magazine back in May 1990, a lot has taken place. We've left California and moved back to Tennessee, taking the Chevelle with us. This time, however, it made the trip on the back of a transporter, rather than being driven. After making that cross-country trip once with the junkyard 350 under the hood, we figured it'd be better not to tempt fate again.

During the five-plus years we've owned the Chevelle, not much progress has been made on its physical restoration. But, what we have done is devoted considerable time, effort, and money researching and collecting all the right parts to effect a correct restoration. In fact, one of our biggest cost early on in the project was securing a pair of NOS convertible quarter panels... at a cost of $2500 for the pair (plus shipping!). At the time they'd been discontinued for many years, and we felt extremely fortunate to locate what we thought were probably the '70 Chevelle convertible quarter panels in the universe. How were we to know that before we actually got started on the project, they would be made available once again? And that they'd be stamped from the original tooling ? Or that the pricing would be considerably less than what we paid? Well, at least can console ourselves with the fact that our quarters are genuine GM.
Any component should be carefully inspected to determine if it is reusable. those that are should be cataloged and stored for refinishing; replacements should be ordered or located for those that aren't.

Since we knew a full-on restoration was in order, our first step was to order as many NOS parts for the Chevelle as were still available. Here's where you either need your own parts manuals, or an excellent relationship with your parts counterman. We were fortunate to have access to a set of parts manuals, so we simply provided him with a list of the parts numbers needed. And, since we did our own parts research, we guaranteed that we'd pay for all the parts we ordered, regardless of whether they turned out to be the correct ones or not. Doing so allowed us to leverage a decent discount on the part we ordered, so don't be afraid to ask if they'll make a similar deal with you. Remember, any discount is better than paying full list! Any parts that weren't available NOS, we ordered from various Chevelle parts emporiums or hunted down excellent used replacements through Hemmings Motor News or at swap meets.

We purchased both a factory assembly manual and a chassis service manual to help educate ourselves on the proper components for our Chevelle. the parts manual provided the numbers needed to order them.
Anything not available from GM parts channels will have to be procured from Chevelle parts purveyors. There's quite a difference in some of the parts offered, so check with owners of other restored Chevelles to find out who makes the best: seatcovers, floorpans, dash pads, etc.

Once you've ordered/located your parts, disassembly is the next step. Take note of all the casting numbers and dates as you remove individual components, and also whether the part needs to be refinished, replaced or restored.
You should also obtain as much literature and information on your car as possible to help determine the correctness of the components you've removed. Educating yourself now will save you considerable time and effort in the future. Be on the lookout for any paperwork that might be pertinent to your car. We found a fairly intact build sheet in the bottom cushion of our rear seat, and several pieces of another when we dropped the gas tank.

All parts that you intend on re-using should be categorized and stored properly. Label all boxes as to their content, and, in the case of smaller pieces and hardware, we used recloseable plastic freezer bags. Those parts that we knew would be replaced with NOS or reproduction items, or that we felt were unacceptable for our purposes were shuffled of to a swap meet where we recouped at least a small portion of our anticipated parts costs.

Being organized is perhaps one of the most important aspects of any restoration.

Taking your time and plenty of notes along the way will make your job easier, more methodical, and ensure the results you're after. Next installment, we'll focus on the engine compartment and some of the specifics of component removal. Stay tuned!