Chevelle Tech
Chevelle Tech
CHEVELLE TECH is a regular column intended as a guide to assist members with questions they have regarding 1964-72 Chevelles. We'll publish as many letters and responses per issue as space permits.
Sorry, but no personal responses can be made.
Address your questions to:
CHEVELLE TECH, A.C.E.S.,
4636 Lebanon Pike, Suite 195,
Nashville, TN 37076-1316.


This issue:


  1. Keep Your Guards Up
  2. Rebuilt Tilt
  3. Headlight Highlights
  4. Spaced Out



Keep Your Guards Up

Q:
While attending a swap meet recently, I came across a deal that seemed too good to be true. Laying there on the ground next to some used Chevelle sheetmetal was an open GM parts box with what appeared to be a couple of bumper guards in it. I asked the guy standing there wahat they would fit, and he told me they were front guards for a '70 Chevelle. What luck! I just happened to own a '70 Chevelle, and the guards would sure be a nice addition. to top it off, the guy was only asking $25 for the pair! I almost ripped off my back pocket trying to get to my wallet before he changed his mind.

You probably know where I'm going with this, so, to make a long story short, after I got home I eagerly tried to bolt them up to my Chevelle's bumper. It soon became obvious that there was no way they were going to fit. Like I said, the deal seemed too good to be true... and it was!
SO, now I'm stuck with a pair of NOS bumper guards that I don't even know what they'll fit. Here's the part number that appears on the box: 993687. Can you give me any information on them? At least if I can learn what they fit, the next guy who buys them won't get burned like I did (even if it was for only $25). Thanks for any help you can give me on this problem.

Matt Wasco, Dallas TX

A:
Thank goodness you only got stuck for 25 bucks, Matt. But given the same set of circumstances, we'd probably have done the same thing, too. After all, it isn't that difficult to recover form a $25 gamble, even if you crap out.

Still, your story does point out the fact that precautions should be taken at swap meets, regardless of how honest the seller may appear to be. Perhaps the best thing to do, especially if you're looking for NOS parts, is to research them as carefully as possible, make a list of the parts numbers you're looking for, and if possible, bring a photo of what the part looks like with you to the swap meet.

As for the parts you're inquiring about, the seller may have gotten bad information, or forgotten just what the application was, because he was close. Real close. the bumper guards you have will fit the front of any '69 Chevelle, Matt. And while we're sorry that they won't fit your '70, fair market value on the pair of bumper guards is considerably more than you paid. boy, all lessons should turn out this well!!! By the way, one of the benefits of being a club member is free classified advertising. See the classifieds section in this issue, Matt, for the specifics on how to place yours.


Rebuilt Tilt

Q:
My '68 Malibu came with a factory tilt steering column. Problem is, over the years it's been used to the point where now it's all loose and sloppy. I tried to find one for a '68, but so far no luck. It seems that a column from a '67 is different somehow, and the '69 and later ones all have ignition keys on them, so I'm stuck trying to find a '68 since it's the only one that will work. Any suggestions? I've about given up on locating a tilt column, and at this point would probably even settle for a straight column, if i could find one of those too. Please help, if you can.
Rick Pitts, Reading, PA

A:
You're right, the 68 Chevelle column is a one-year only deal, Rick. but we do have a few suggestions. Our first move would be to expand our search to include other '68 GM A-bodies (Skylark, Cutlass, and Tempest based models). Not surprisingly, these "upscale" corporate cousins were more frequently fitted with comfort and luxury options than the "entry level" Chevelles, and they may yield a tilt column that will bolt right in. They're also an excellent source for niceties such as rear defoggers, power windows, underhood, trunk, and under dash courtesy lights, power seat tracks, and so on.
Happy hunting!

On the chance that option (no pun intended) doesn't work, you're faced with the possibility of rebuilding the column yourself (an assortment of special tools and a lot of patience are absolute prerequisites to getting the job done right) or having someone else get rid of the "floppies" for you.

If you choose the latter, we can recommend Gary's Classic Chevy Parts (1119 Cascade Avenue, Dallas, TX 75224 (214) 948-1831) as one of the best tilt column rebuilders around. Plus, if your column is beyond repair, they keep a stock of already-rebuilt columns on hand for immediate shipment. We also have a story coming up on their remanufactured '66-7 Chevelle A/C and heater control assemblies, but you'll have to wait until the next issue hits your mailbox.


Headlight Highlights

Q:
While restoring my '64 Chevelle SS convertible, I made plenty of trips to the local "Pick Your Part" dismantling center. One of the things I noticed was that there are still quite a few GM cars out there with original T3 headlights. So I started pulling them whenever I found them, so I could sell them at the swap meets and make a few bucks.

At the last swap meet, a guy pointed out a subtle difference that I had failed to notice before on the T3's, and that is the small triangular T3 logo in the center of the headlight. Some come with lines in them, while others are clear. He asked me if I knew which ones would be correct for his car,and I had to plead my ignorance. Do you have any idea if the lines have any significance? Or were they just production changes from one plant to another? I'm very curious about this. I'd like to make sure I have the right ones installed in my Chevelle too.

Ronnie Foster, Ontario, CA

A:
Check this out next time you're visiting your favourite boneyard, Ronnie. The "clear" T3's should only be found in '67 and earlier cars, while the "lined" T3's were generally installed in '68 and up models. Of course, it's altogether possible that a later-model "lined" T3 could be installed in a '67 or earlier car as a replacement for the burned out "clear" T3 originally installed. We're pretty sure this rule holds true for other GM makes, as well.


Spaced Out

Q:
I've got a '69 Chevelle SS that I've been working on now for over two years. When I first got the car, it had a fiberglass snorkel hood on it. that was OK at first, but the more I work on the car, the closer it becomes to stock again. I've already redone the interior with reproduction pieces so its "like new" again. Now, I thought I'd try to replace the snorkel hood with a correct factory "double dome" SS hood.

After looking for weeks, i came across one in the local Trader paper, and rushed over to purchase if before anyone else could. The hood is in excellent shape with no apparent damage or bodywork (can't get my refrigerator magnet to fall of anywhere), and the chrome grilles are in exceptional condition. the guy told me it was removed from the original car in '70 and had been in storage since. I gladly paid him $300 for the hood, and quickly carted it off.

When it came time to bolt it on ny Chevelle, I was blown away. The mounting holes on the hood lack about 2 inches or so from matching up to the holes on my hinges. What gives? I know I've got the right SS hood because I've seen plenty of others on '69 Chevelles. I know I've also got the right hinges because my first thoughts were that the previous owner switched hinges somehow to make the fiberglass hood work. Well, I snagged a pari off another '69 and came up with the same story. I'm stumped. Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated.

Stu Pidguy, Road Narrow, IA

A:
Betcha didn't know that the '68 and '69 hoods were virtually identical in appearance, Stu, while the hinge holes are, as you imply, a smidge off. Actually, the '68 hood has a 12 inch bolt hole spacing, while the '69 measures up at 14.5 inches. We'd be willing to bet you've latched on to a '68 because a '69 SS hood would have bolted right up to your original hinges.

So the way we see it, ya gots two choices. You can lose the '68 hood (nice piece, good price, but technically incorrect for your car) and try to locate a correct '69 replacement. Or, you can locate a pair of '68 hinges and bolt them up to your fenders (those holes will match) and, in turn, mount your hood. Whichever you choose, the desired effect will be attained, you'll be rid of that ugly snorkel and one step closer to having the stock appearance you're after. CW


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